We survived the Whites

Ten days later we emerge from the White Mountains, the toughest part of the Appalachian Trail, with very difficult terrain and weather. We have covered just over 100 miles, much of it above the treeline, in hypothermic conditions. We have learned what 'wind chill' means. And with winds over 50 miles per hour, the temperature with wind chill taken into account drops below freezing. One day was so bad that we stayed at the hut for a rest day hoping that the cold front would pass. It sure took its time!

The hut system in the mountains provides huts every 4-5 hours walk, with dinner and breakfast. These bunks are booked out months in advance. We took our chance. They offer thru-hikers 'work for stay' which means you get to sleep on the floor of the dining room after everyone has gone to bed, and eat cold leftovers, and do some chores - but it costs nothing. The paying guests pay $100 a person per night. We did work for stay in 2 huts and were paying guests in 2 huts. Conditions were so bad, that Digby had to 'rescue' a woman wearing light cotton trousers and a plastic poncho which had been shredded in the wind. She couldnt standn up when the gusts came through.

Reminded me of Tasmania and the south west wilderness a lot.

Starting into New Hampshire

Just as we left to cross the Vermont border into New Hampshire, a lady in a car drove up and thrust a bag of freshly picked blueberries into our hands and asked if we would like them. Of course we said yes. Headed into the town of Dartmouth, and found ourselves a pizza restaurant. At 6pm we were picked up by Ralph and taken to Tigger's Treehouse, a homestay 6 miles out of town which hosts hikers.

The next day I bought a new pair of boots - the tread on the pair I had bought in week 4 had completely worn out, and I was nervous about taking them into the White Mountains. I bought the exact same pair of boots so that hopefully I won't have an issue with blisters. Three days of hiking and they have softened into being great boots.

We are now at the Hikers Welcome Hostel in Glencliff - having an afternoon off from the trail. Getting ready for the hardstuff which starts tomorrow climbing Mt Mouselauke with a 4500' climb. We are now through the 400 mile countdown - sitting on 398 miles to go. The next hundred miles sound very exciting.

Reflections on Vermont

Today - 15th August - we crossed the bridge over the Connecticut River and entered New Hampshire. With some excitement I might add, as this is the last leg of our journey with less than 450 miles to walk.

So it is time to take stock - first - how are we coping? Digby's knee is a perennial problem and he has been taking 'Ibubrophen' on a daily basis which reduces the swelling and acts as a painkiller. Despite the knee issue, we have been making good time, averaging over 100 miles a week and keeping to our schedule.

What about Vermont?
It is meant to be the muddy state, but we have had virtually no rain for the nine days that we hiked thru it. It is not as 'misty' or 'looming' as Massachussetts with its huge granite gorges and moss covered ravines. But it has a lot to offer and we enjoyed our time here. It made us think of Victoria with the climate that we had - crisp temperatures for walking of about 25C - just perfect.

The highlights

• Discovering 'moose poo' on the trail - we have yet to see a moose.
• Staying at the Bromley Sun Lodge in the Bromley Ski Resort, and watching Americans at play.
• Meeting four different work crews on the trail - one an all women team - improving the conditions of the trail.
• Walking with a 'group' - Scatters and Stucco, our warrior princesses, as well as Deetz, Powerpak, Ugly Tuna, Boss, and Miles - and enjoying the interactions over a 5 day period as we got to know them.
• My first swim in a wild river - and camping right next to the river.
• Climbing Mt Killington, at just over 4,000' the second highest peak in Vermont. A beautiful day and great views to be had.
• Staying at the Inn on the Long Trail - a hiker inn with an Irish pub attached. Guinness on tap so Digby was in seventh heaven.
• Meeting the pet pig at Mountain Meadows Lodge and giving it a good scratch behind the ears.
• Finding our first Vermont trail magic - two cold cokes left in the river for us.