Wednesday, June 16, 2010
ATMs in the US
Americans love their cars. So there are drive-in ATMs so they don't have to park and walk to get money. But what if you are on foot? You get in the queue with the cars! There is Digby- 3 cars in front of him, two cars behind him. While he waits he makes Brmmm Brmmm noises and turns his imaginary steering wheel from side to side. Getting money out becomes a memoarable event.
Saturday, June 5, 2010
desperation - wine and no corkscrew
digby learns the hard way that the US still uses corks in their wine when he opens a bottle with a pocket knife.
We clock over 700 miles
We have arrived at Dalesville - which is really a freeway suburb of a large city called Roanake in Virginia. we are surrounded by franchises for every food imaginable - the only decision is what restaurant to visit tonight - last night was Mexican and I drank my third US 'jumbo marguerita - 12 ounces to the glass.
We are taking a rest day here at a motel run by Indians (from India) - the best place we have stayed on the trail so far. Digby's bad knee was extremely swollen yesterday and we are both feeling exhausted having walked the last 6 days from Pearisburg climbing very mountainous terrain every day. And they said Virgina walking was easy! So far this is not so. we had to climb to the Dragons Tooth - a monolith and the descent was very steep and cliffy and rocky. At one point I lost my balance on a descent over a cliff and pitched forward over the cliff to be caught in a tree and wedged with my pack between the cliff and the tree, completely suspended and jammed. Digby seeing me disappearing over the edge made a lunge to catch my pack before I fell but he missed and then overbalanced as his pack pushed him over the edge of the cliff too. alas he had no tree to catch him and i watched him roll down past me. he was fine and extracted me from the jam, but it was a wake up call for us.
We are taking a rest day here at a motel run by Indians (from India) - the best place we have stayed on the trail so far. Digby's bad knee was extremely swollen yesterday and we are both feeling exhausted having walked the last 6 days from Pearisburg climbing very mountainous terrain every day. And they said Virgina walking was easy! So far this is not so. we had to climb to the Dragons Tooth - a monolith and the descent was very steep and cliffy and rocky. At one point I lost my balance on a descent over a cliff and pitched forward over the cliff to be caught in a tree and wedged with my pack between the cliff and the tree, completely suspended and jammed. Digby seeing me disappearing over the edge made a lunge to catch my pack before I fell but he missed and then overbalanced as his pack pushed him over the edge of the cliff too. alas he had no tree to catch him and i watched him roll down past me. he was fine and extracted me from the jam, but it was a wake up call for us.
Friday, May 28, 2010
A new record - 58 days on the trail
We have now been hiking longer than we have ever hiked before on a long distance walk. Our previous record was 56 days for the Bibbulman Track. How do we feel ?- fit, lean and hungry. A few aches and pains especially as we start to increase our daily distances to between 15-20 miles.
A typical day on the trail has us eating porridge for breakfast with a cup of tea and walking by 7.45am. We stop around 10.00am for a snack of nuts and m and ms. Then keep walking to around 1. Often we have a lunch at a shelter as it is usually a mid point, and other hikers often appear for a bit of a social lunch. We usually stop hiking around 5 then have a cup of 'cowboy' coffee - ground coffee boiled in the billy - and then some soup, rice and some tuna. usually in bed asleep by 8.00.
Does this sound boring?? There are many bits of excitement and changes to make every day different. Tonight we are staying at Woods Hole hostel near Pearisburg - a log cabin that was rediscovered in the woods by a researcher looking for elk, that had been built in the 1890s and abandoned.
A typical day on the trail has us eating porridge for breakfast with a cup of tea and walking by 7.45am. We stop around 10.00am for a snack of nuts and m and ms. Then keep walking to around 1. Often we have a lunch at a shelter as it is usually a mid point, and other hikers often appear for a bit of a social lunch. We usually stop hiking around 5 then have a cup of 'cowboy' coffee - ground coffee boiled in the billy - and then some soup, rice and some tuna. usually in bed asleep by 8.00.
Does this sound boring?? There are many bits of excitement and changes to make every day different. Tonight we are staying at Woods Hole hostel near Pearisburg - a log cabin that was rediscovered in the woods by a researcher looking for elk, that had been built in the 1890s and abandoned.
Friday, May 7, 2010
Some pioneer stories
As we are walking along the Tennessee - North Carolina border between Hot Springs and Erwin, we have come across some poignant stories and reminders of the past - remants in the hickory and hemlock forests, as the trail winds through.
The first is a grave stone - the name is forgotten but the birth and death dates stand out in my mind - a woman born april 1865, died may 1965. There are plastic flowers next to the head stone. One hundred years old and her remains are buried on a small knoll several hundred feet above Recor Laurle Rd. We climb past the grave another hundred feet and come to a small level campsite which on closer inspection shows that it is the site of an old homestead. The fireplace is tumbled into a pile of stones. The timber log cabin walls are still jointed but pushed over on to their side. There is an old slow combustion stove and a rusted water tank. I imagine the old woman living here until she was 100, bringing up her family, deep in the forest, miles from anywhere. She refuses to leave her home, and when she dies it is demolished into a pile of rubble, and the headstone is the only reminder.
The other site is marked on the map as the Shelford Graves - a site where an uncle and nephew who were in the Union army were shot dead in 1863 as they returned home to their family in confederate territory. This site is marked by artificial flowers too. It seems so long ago, but what we have learned, is that the war is still being fought in the south, and that the confederacy is alive and well. At Hot Springs, we see an advertisment for the coming civil war re-enactment weekend. They replay the battles and wear the uniforms. Even in the current newspapers you can pick up the 'them and us' as the southern states try and work out how to fight Obama's health reforms which are seen as the greatest attack on personal liberties, and local politicians are trying to rally the masses to the cause.
The first is a grave stone - the name is forgotten but the birth and death dates stand out in my mind - a woman born april 1865, died may 1965. There are plastic flowers next to the head stone. One hundred years old and her remains are buried on a small knoll several hundred feet above Recor Laurle Rd. We climb past the grave another hundred feet and come to a small level campsite which on closer inspection shows that it is the site of an old homestead. The fireplace is tumbled into a pile of stones. The timber log cabin walls are still jointed but pushed over on to their side. There is an old slow combustion stove and a rusted water tank. I imagine the old woman living here until she was 100, bringing up her family, deep in the forest, miles from anywhere. She refuses to leave her home, and when she dies it is demolished into a pile of rubble, and the headstone is the only reminder.
The other site is marked on the map as the Shelford Graves - a site where an uncle and nephew who were in the Union army were shot dead in 1863 as they returned home to their family in confederate territory. This site is marked by artificial flowers too. It seems so long ago, but what we have learned, is that the war is still being fought in the south, and that the confederacy is alive and well. At Hot Springs, we see an advertisment for the coming civil war re-enactment weekend. They replay the battles and wear the uniforms. Even in the current newspapers you can pick up the 'them and us' as the southern states try and work out how to fight Obama's health reforms which are seen as the greatest attack on personal liberties, and local politicians are trying to rally the masses to the cause.
Saturday, May 1, 2010
Our first month on the trail
Today is May 1 - we have been on the trail now for 30 days. I have lost 9 lbs - which I think is about 4 kilos, and keeping up my trousers with a piece of cord. My boots have destroyed themselves - the left sole separated from the upper about 5 days ago. The boot still let me make it to Hot Springs to buy a new pair. In the Outfitters at Hot Springs I have bought new boots, new parka, new torch headlight. The rigours of the trail put our old gear under stress and it collapses. The new boots are a size bigger than the old ones - hopefully this will stop the numbness on my second toe on the left foot which has been a problem.
Food has become fuel - and when we hit town, all we can think about is what food we are going to eat. Last night a bottle of champagne (from Italy) and a large steak, served with caramelised onions, blue cheese sauce with potato mash and sweet potato as well. The restaurant actually had a wine list. I have drunk an ice-cream soda - remember the Patty Duke show on TV in the 60s, they used to drink ice cream sodas at the drug store. A long tall glass and inside is lemonade, chocolate syrup, icecream, and topped off with whipped cream, drunk with a straw. So much fat in it, and my body craves it.
We are staying at Ducket House B&B - a grand old two storey timber house, with antique furniture, and a blue heeler called Jack. Quite a few blue heelers in the US. Breakfast was an amazing experience - back to a food conversation again. Huge home-made scones which are called biscuits, a quiche from fresh eggs - anacondas are the chickents. Enjoying the luxury and our first real rest day on the trail. Hope to wander down and have a dip in the spa at the hot springs later today.
Hot Springs is a small town - and we have arrived in the middle of a music festival - Bluegrass - sort of hillbilly folk music. Unfortunately we can't buy a ticket just for the main concert and a day ticket is too expensive. The library has 10 computers for use and these are mainly used by thru hikers - sitting everywhere - floor, tables etc.
Food has become fuel - and when we hit town, all we can think about is what food we are going to eat. Last night a bottle of champagne (from Italy) and a large steak, served with caramelised onions, blue cheese sauce with potato mash and sweet potato as well. The restaurant actually had a wine list. I have drunk an ice-cream soda - remember the Patty Duke show on TV in the 60s, they used to drink ice cream sodas at the drug store. A long tall glass and inside is lemonade, chocolate syrup, icecream, and topped off with whipped cream, drunk with a straw. So much fat in it, and my body craves it.
We are staying at Ducket House B&B - a grand old two storey timber house, with antique furniture, and a blue heeler called Jack. Quite a few blue heelers in the US. Breakfast was an amazing experience - back to a food conversation again. Huge home-made scones which are called biscuits, a quiche from fresh eggs - anacondas are the chickents. Enjoying the luxury and our first real rest day on the trail. Hope to wander down and have a dip in the spa at the hot springs later today.
Hot Springs is a small town - and we have arrived in the middle of a music festival - Bluegrass - sort of hillbilly folk music. Unfortunately we can't buy a ticket just for the main concert and a day ticket is too expensive. The library has 10 computers for use and these are mainly used by thru hikers - sitting everywhere - floor, tables etc.
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Smoky Mountains are behind us
We have now walked 238 miles of the AT. Only 1940 miles to go! We are now able to walk 14 mile days and still feel fit at the end of the day.
We have spent the last 7 days in the Smoky Mountains which rise to over 6000 feet and form the border between North CArolina and Tennessee. We had one day where we were walking on a ridgeline which was only one metre wide - with TE to our left and NC to our right.
Staying in the shelters - you are not allowed to camp in the smokies, you have to stay in the shelters which can sleep about 20 people. Before this we have been camping and keeping much more to ourselves. Now we are amongst the hordes and mingling much more and enjoying the company. The AT is a community which is 2100 miles long and a strip 10 miles wide, and as you move amongst the hikers you keep reconnecting with people you saw a few days ago, and will see again. Think of it like a cloud, always moving and changing shape. For 4 days we have been walking with Food Network and Pocohontas Mode, but they left the trail 3 days ago to hitch into the nearby town of Gatlinburg, so now we are ahead of them, and expecting them to reappear at any time as they walk faster than us.
Seeing our first Black Bear - 30 metres ahead on the trail looking straight at us, he decides to amble off to the left 20 metres into the bushes and watch us walking by. Very close, very big - to me anyway - and very fluffy. Nobody else in our cohort has seen a bear so we are very privileged. We met a ranger - called a ridge runner - who said the bear is a burglar not a robber. You hang your food at night high in the tree so the bear cant steal it, but he is not likely to attack you for your food.
Climbing Clingmans Dome - with great views into 6 states. At 6,643 ft it is the highest point on the Appalachian Trail.
The route between Pecks Corner and Tricorner Shelters - a wonderful sunny day and a narrow ridge walk with great views, followed by deep forest andconifers covered in moss reminded us of the forests in Lord of the Rings.
The forests of the Smokies are dying en masse. This is being caused by coal burning power stations in Tennessee. The air pollution weakens the trees and then they are attacked by insects. Apparently the authorities are now spending billions trying to clean up their act, but the forests are skeletons. Really sad when you read how a few amazing forward thinking individuals were able to prevent the logging companies from destroying the forests in the early 1900s, and to put them land into the national park.
Digby left his reading glasses behind at Tricorner shelter. We have sent out a message via the AT grapevine and we hope that they will turn up somehow - we will have to see if trail magic really works.
Digby teaches 'Food Network' the words and tune to Walzing Matilda and he plays it on his ukele. We have to explain every second word in the song - what is a swagman, what is jumbuck, what is a billabong - the americans dont speak our language.
We have discovered 'section walkers' are a great resource - hikers out for a few days or weeks or a month only. They always have spare food, and when they say, does anyone want ...... we always say yes. At one shelter Digby cooked pancakes for 10 hikers from some donated pancake mix, honey and dried strawberries. the section walkers were going home - it was too wet, so we got the food. Thru hikers never turn down food.
We have spent the last 7 days in the Smoky Mountains which rise to over 6000 feet and form the border between North CArolina and Tennessee. We had one day where we were walking on a ridgeline which was only one metre wide - with TE to our left and NC to our right.
The highlights of the Smokies
Staying in the shelters - you are not allowed to camp in the smokies, you have to stay in the shelters which can sleep about 20 people. Before this we have been camping and keeping much more to ourselves. Now we are amongst the hordes and mingling much more and enjoying the company. The AT is a community which is 2100 miles long and a strip 10 miles wide, and as you move amongst the hikers you keep reconnecting with people you saw a few days ago, and will see again. Think of it like a cloud, always moving and changing shape. For 4 days we have been walking with Food Network and Pocohontas Mode, but they left the trail 3 days ago to hitch into the nearby town of Gatlinburg, so now we are ahead of them, and expecting them to reappear at any time as they walk faster than us.
Seeing our first Black Bear - 30 metres ahead on the trail looking straight at us, he decides to amble off to the left 20 metres into the bushes and watch us walking by. Very close, very big - to me anyway - and very fluffy. Nobody else in our cohort has seen a bear so we are very privileged. We met a ranger - called a ridge runner - who said the bear is a burglar not a robber. You hang your food at night high in the tree so the bear cant steal it, but he is not likely to attack you for your food.
Climbing Clingmans Dome - with great views into 6 states. At 6,643 ft it is the highest point on the Appalachian Trail.
The route between Pecks Corner and Tricorner Shelters - a wonderful sunny day and a narrow ridge walk with great views, followed by deep forest andconifers covered in moss reminded us of the forests in Lord of the Rings.
Some other stuff
The forests of the Smokies are dying en masse. This is being caused by coal burning power stations in Tennessee. The air pollution weakens the trees and then they are attacked by insects. Apparently the authorities are now spending billions trying to clean up their act, but the forests are skeletons. Really sad when you read how a few amazing forward thinking individuals were able to prevent the logging companies from destroying the forests in the early 1900s, and to put them land into the national park.
Digby left his reading glasses behind at Tricorner shelter. We have sent out a message via the AT grapevine and we hope that they will turn up somehow - we will have to see if trail magic really works.
Digby teaches 'Food Network' the words and tune to Walzing Matilda and he plays it on his ukele. We have to explain every second word in the song - what is a swagman, what is jumbuck, what is a billabong - the americans dont speak our language.
We have discovered 'section walkers' are a great resource - hikers out for a few days or weeks or a month only. They always have spare food, and when they say, does anyone want ...... we always say yes. At one shelter Digby cooked pancakes for 10 hikers from some donated pancake mix, honey and dried strawberries. the section walkers were going home - it was too wet, so we got the food. Thru hikers never turn down food.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)