We have now been hiking longer than we have ever hiked before on a long distance walk. Our previous record was 56 days for the Bibbulman Track. How do we feel ?- fit, lean and hungry. A few aches and pains especially as we start to increase our daily distances to between 15-20 miles.
A typical day on the trail has us eating porridge for breakfast with a cup of tea and walking by 7.45am. We stop around 10.00am for a snack of nuts and m and ms. Then keep walking to around 1. Often we have a lunch at a shelter as it is usually a mid point, and other hikers often appear for a bit of a social lunch. We usually stop hiking around 5 then have a cup of 'cowboy' coffee - ground coffee boiled in the billy - and then some soup, rice and some tuna. usually in bed asleep by 8.00.
Does this sound boring?? There are many bits of excitement and changes to make every day different. Tonight we are staying at Woods Hole hostel near Pearisburg - a log cabin that was rediscovered in the woods by a researcher looking for elk, that had been built in the 1890s and abandoned.
Friday, May 28, 2010
Friday, May 7, 2010
Some pioneer stories
As we are walking along the Tennessee - North Carolina border between Hot Springs and Erwin, we have come across some poignant stories and reminders of the past - remants in the hickory and hemlock forests, as the trail winds through.
The first is a grave stone - the name is forgotten but the birth and death dates stand out in my mind - a woman born april 1865, died may 1965. There are plastic flowers next to the head stone. One hundred years old and her remains are buried on a small knoll several hundred feet above Recor Laurle Rd. We climb past the grave another hundred feet and come to a small level campsite which on closer inspection shows that it is the site of an old homestead. The fireplace is tumbled into a pile of stones. The timber log cabin walls are still jointed but pushed over on to their side. There is an old slow combustion stove and a rusted water tank. I imagine the old woman living here until she was 100, bringing up her family, deep in the forest, miles from anywhere. She refuses to leave her home, and when she dies it is demolished into a pile of rubble, and the headstone is the only reminder.
The other site is marked on the map as the Shelford Graves - a site where an uncle and nephew who were in the Union army were shot dead in 1863 as they returned home to their family in confederate territory. This site is marked by artificial flowers too. It seems so long ago, but what we have learned, is that the war is still being fought in the south, and that the confederacy is alive and well. At Hot Springs, we see an advertisment for the coming civil war re-enactment weekend. They replay the battles and wear the uniforms. Even in the current newspapers you can pick up the 'them and us' as the southern states try and work out how to fight Obama's health reforms which are seen as the greatest attack on personal liberties, and local politicians are trying to rally the masses to the cause.
The first is a grave stone - the name is forgotten but the birth and death dates stand out in my mind - a woman born april 1865, died may 1965. There are plastic flowers next to the head stone. One hundred years old and her remains are buried on a small knoll several hundred feet above Recor Laurle Rd. We climb past the grave another hundred feet and come to a small level campsite which on closer inspection shows that it is the site of an old homestead. The fireplace is tumbled into a pile of stones. The timber log cabin walls are still jointed but pushed over on to their side. There is an old slow combustion stove and a rusted water tank. I imagine the old woman living here until she was 100, bringing up her family, deep in the forest, miles from anywhere. She refuses to leave her home, and when she dies it is demolished into a pile of rubble, and the headstone is the only reminder.
The other site is marked on the map as the Shelford Graves - a site where an uncle and nephew who were in the Union army were shot dead in 1863 as they returned home to their family in confederate territory. This site is marked by artificial flowers too. It seems so long ago, but what we have learned, is that the war is still being fought in the south, and that the confederacy is alive and well. At Hot Springs, we see an advertisment for the coming civil war re-enactment weekend. They replay the battles and wear the uniforms. Even in the current newspapers you can pick up the 'them and us' as the southern states try and work out how to fight Obama's health reforms which are seen as the greatest attack on personal liberties, and local politicians are trying to rally the masses to the cause.
Saturday, May 1, 2010
Our first month on the trail
Today is May 1 - we have been on the trail now for 30 days. I have lost 9 lbs - which I think is about 4 kilos, and keeping up my trousers with a piece of cord. My boots have destroyed themselves - the left sole separated from the upper about 5 days ago. The boot still let me make it to Hot Springs to buy a new pair. In the Outfitters at Hot Springs I have bought new boots, new parka, new torch headlight. The rigours of the trail put our old gear under stress and it collapses. The new boots are a size bigger than the old ones - hopefully this will stop the numbness on my second toe on the left foot which has been a problem.
Food has become fuel - and when we hit town, all we can think about is what food we are going to eat. Last night a bottle of champagne (from Italy) and a large steak, served with caramelised onions, blue cheese sauce with potato mash and sweet potato as well. The restaurant actually had a wine list. I have drunk an ice-cream soda - remember the Patty Duke show on TV in the 60s, they used to drink ice cream sodas at the drug store. A long tall glass and inside is lemonade, chocolate syrup, icecream, and topped off with whipped cream, drunk with a straw. So much fat in it, and my body craves it.
We are staying at Ducket House B&B - a grand old two storey timber house, with antique furniture, and a blue heeler called Jack. Quite a few blue heelers in the US. Breakfast was an amazing experience - back to a food conversation again. Huge home-made scones which are called biscuits, a quiche from fresh eggs - anacondas are the chickents. Enjoying the luxury and our first real rest day on the trail. Hope to wander down and have a dip in the spa at the hot springs later today.
Hot Springs is a small town - and we have arrived in the middle of a music festival - Bluegrass - sort of hillbilly folk music. Unfortunately we can't buy a ticket just for the main concert and a day ticket is too expensive. The library has 10 computers for use and these are mainly used by thru hikers - sitting everywhere - floor, tables etc.
Food has become fuel - and when we hit town, all we can think about is what food we are going to eat. Last night a bottle of champagne (from Italy) and a large steak, served with caramelised onions, blue cheese sauce with potato mash and sweet potato as well. The restaurant actually had a wine list. I have drunk an ice-cream soda - remember the Patty Duke show on TV in the 60s, they used to drink ice cream sodas at the drug store. A long tall glass and inside is lemonade, chocolate syrup, icecream, and topped off with whipped cream, drunk with a straw. So much fat in it, and my body craves it.
We are staying at Ducket House B&B - a grand old two storey timber house, with antique furniture, and a blue heeler called Jack. Quite a few blue heelers in the US. Breakfast was an amazing experience - back to a food conversation again. Huge home-made scones which are called biscuits, a quiche from fresh eggs - anacondas are the chickents. Enjoying the luxury and our first real rest day on the trail. Hope to wander down and have a dip in the spa at the hot springs later today.
Hot Springs is a small town - and we have arrived in the middle of a music festival - Bluegrass - sort of hillbilly folk music. Unfortunately we can't buy a ticket just for the main concert and a day ticket is too expensive. The library has 10 computers for use and these are mainly used by thru hikers - sitting everywhere - floor, tables etc.
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